Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Landslide Gully, Mount Webster


Ducked out of the office for a fabulous morning on Mount Webster with the one and only Sarah Garlick on Thursday.
I put one of these images up on my Facebook page and it went wild with comments - there must be something about chicks on ice...











Gear:
Polartec test fabric hoody fleece
Mountain Hardwear Barisian jacket
Mountain Hardwear Scrambler Pack
La Sportiva Women's Nepal Top
Petzl Vasak crampon
Sterling Marathon 8.8 Rope

Sunday, January 31, 2010

What Would Beryl Do?

"We fly, but we have not 'conquered' the air. Nature presides in all her dignity, permitting us the study and the use of such of her forces as we may understand. It is when we presume to intimacy, having been granted only tolerance, that the harsh stick fall across our impudent knuckles and we rub the pain, staring upward, startled by our ignorance." Beryl Markham (West with the Night)
Whenever I’ve had a choice to make recently, I ask myself “What would Beryl do?” I just finished reading, or maybe a better word would be experiencing, her 1942 autobiography West with the Night. The book had an unsuccessful first printing, but was rediscovered in the 1980’s when this letter from Ernest Hemingway was uncovered:
"Did you read Beryl Markham's book, West With The Night? ...She has written so well, and marvelously well, that I was completely ashamed of myself as a writer. I felt that I was simply a carpenter with words, picking up whatever was furnished on the job and nailing them together and sometimes making an okay pig pen. But this girl, who is to my knowledge very unpleasant and we might even say a high-grade bitch, can write rings around all of us who consider ourselves as writers ... it really is a bloody wonderful book."
All I will say in review of the book is that it is a must read. Beautiful and thought provoking and bold and fun.
Beryl and I share, as part of our life sequences, an obsession with horses in younger years that was dropped stone cold and unexplained in early adulthood for a new obsession with a fringe, less girlie activity. For her, the activity was flying—for me, it is climbing (Lucky for Freddie, my fiancĂ©, that is where the parallels in our lives end, as I am very content being monogamous, and she, apparently, was not).
Anyway, Beryl’s book ended before she rediscovered her love of animals, which she did. And now, as I enjoy a more mature relationship with my dozen-years-and-counting climbing obsession, I find myself drawn back into relating with animals again too.
Instead of dreaming of the moves on the newest climbing project, my imagination is captured by thoughts of new ground to explore with Tagger the dog, our newest family member. Just as I would pour over the pages of Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills with questions about rope systems and glacier travel before, now I am reviewing the newest trends in animal communication to try to understand him. His machine of a nose, his full speed galloping gait, his mysterious eyes and his changing moods all amaze me, just as the nooks and crannies of Cathedral Ledge did when I first moved here (they still do!).
This all gets me thinking about horses again, of course, and dreaming of being a farmer. We are lucky to live on land in a place where if we wanted that, and worked hard enough for it, it could be a reality. But my imagination also goes wild with the possibility of spending the summer climbing mountains in India. The opportunities are in place for that as well, though also requiring hard work and commitment. So what am I to do with the little time available in this life? Well, what would Beryl do? I am going to guess she would just unabashedly, unapologetically, do it all. I’ll take that as a challenge.

Tagger the heating pad. Photo Anne Skidmore
"Life is life and fun is fun, but it's all so quiet when the goldfish die." -Beryl Markham

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

From the Archives

Tis the holiday season, which for me brings a lot of reflection and often sadness. Writing this piece for Climbing Magazine helped me through some of the grief of losing one of the people I looked up to most, on Christmas. Posting this is not intended to be a downer for readers, but simply a reminder to celebrate what really matters this season.

Nothing Lasts for Long
By Janet Bergman

(Published in Climbing Magazine, Issue 236)

The plan that hatched on the long drive from California to Ohio that December was to pay my family dues over the holidays, before departing for Asheville, North Carolina, where I’d likely max out my VISA card while getting settled. It seemed so simple. Armed with my newly acquired B.S. from the University of New Hampshire, and drained of all energy and money from a half-year climbing trip, I was ready for life. Whatever that meant.

Our extended family traditionally spends the holidays together in a nonstop train of parties. My cousin Tim and I caught up at the first party on December 23, 2002, exchanging stories, reminiscing, and musing over the state of the world. Tim promised to visit North Carolina that spring, and reminded me to keep up with my writing.

The family gathered again at Aunt Betty’s on Christmas morning, but Tim never arrived. Hours later the news came that he had committed suicide early that morning, after a last night out with his siblings and friends. The family remained together through our initial periods of disbelief, pain, and anger. Funeral and memorial services, and days and nights of mourning, replaced the family parties. The dizzying days rolled into weeks.

Some mix of having grown up together, yet having chosen different paths, has made for unusually close and always interesting relationships with my cousins, and Tim was no exception. He was always present, always interested, always observing. He was committed to his family and friends, but insisted on experiencing his life alone as well. He was eccentric in his thinking and his ways, and an individualist in his every action. Tim’s suicide flipped my life upside down, presenting me with a crux I didn’t know how to surmount.

In my usual way, I pushed through with plans to “start my life” in Asheville, still rocked from my loss. After weeks of aimless bumbling, indifferent to a new city and unmotivated to find my bearings, I realized that fighting through my grief wasn’t the same as topping out a boulder problem or cracking tricky Beta. I soon retreated to my family in Ohio, only to lapse into a confused depression that spanned the next six months. Tim’s act profoundly affected me more than anything I knew.

________________________

Sarah, my friend and climbing partner, graduated that spring and began a climbing trip. We made plans for “big-wall school” in Yosemite. Though I consciously avoid expectations, climbing keeps me in the present and always lends new perspectives to the past and future. Ohio life had me feeling … flat … and I needed this trip to free me from the consuming weight of reticence, apathy, and sorrow.

Reuniting with friends at Camp 4 was like going home. Sarah and I shared a vague, lofty dream to climb El Cap, which we discussed between daylong free climbs. Enough talking, heckling, and begging landed us in a party of four, complete with more food, gear, and perspectives than we needed. Our objective was the Nose. Sarah and I quickly jumped at an open spot in line, and together we fixed to Sickle Ledge while our other partners finished the Zodiac.

We spent the next four nights on the wall. Sarah and I got schooled -- five day’s worth of exasperation from the boys while we learned wall climbing on lead. Flowing through my fear on the Nose put me in a place I’d been sorely missing; absorbing the sunset and the moonrise over the Valley soothed me. The simplicity of the demands on us -- to move ourselves and our gear up the wall -- was both enlivening and taxing. The higher we got, the more engaged I became. It was enough to finally awaken me from my depression. Dozing on a ledge one morning, Sarah and I made plans to meet at the end of her trip for the beginning of my “start my life, take two” mission -- this time in New Hampshire.
________________________

That August we descended upon the Mount Washington Valley, joining the usual suspects for a late summer and fall of climbing, swimming, exploring, and general bliss. I felt at home, fueled by the strength of my friendships, partnerships, and adventures, carried along without thought or worry.

After my time in Ohio, the stimulation of an active climbing life was thrilling. Those experiences -- not successes or failures on climbs, but those moments when movement and rhythm are all that exist -- were familiar to me, and lie at the heart of my climbing obsession. But depression had weighed me down for so long that those experiences soon felt unwarranted. I wanted to “move on” emotionally, but any attempt served only to veil my remnant confusion and sadness; thoughts of Tim lingered in the periphery of my conscious. Unreconciled grief mixed with an indulgent sense of satisfaction from climbing, and, once again, I found myself rocked emotionally.

I needed to convince myself that Tim was wrong, that life is worthwhile. But why should I keep living if life wasn’t important to him, someone I’d looked up to my whole life? The deeper I searched, the more I concluded that life is futile, and living painful. Climbing continued to be my escape.

________________________

As the holidays approached, the rock got wet, the ice hadn’t formed, and the one-year anniversary of Tim’s suicide loomed. Friends migrated for the winter, others returned from fall trips abroad. I forced myself to stay busy -- unable to be alone lest that veil pull back, spiraling me into painful, unanswerable questions, remembering times past that couldn’t be restored.

I wanted to smash my radio whenever Christmas music played during the drive to Cleveland. The family parties commenced, but I was faltering. I couldn’t communicate with those I loved most, and I cried myself to sleep nightly. The anticipation was agonizing -- I was sure we’d relive the pain tenfold. But Christmas came and went. That day will never be the same, but for me, it won’t ever be as painful. It was then that I realized that I’d survived the worst of my pain.

Until Tim’s suicide, an oblivious and idealistic perspective lulled me into believing that life was understandable, and that I was unshakable. But understanding didn’t follow this experience. Climbing has taught me to accept the process, and experience the results that naturally follow. The less cerebral I am, the more likely it is that I’ll pull through. This simple-yet-complex realization offers a powerful outlook on life, and gives me a way of dealing with the emotional scar that I’m forced to bear.

Tim lived a good life, savoring every moment. His passionate ways -- down to his last act -- inspired me to search within. Before his passing I ascribed to the theory that climbing is separate from life. But climbing isn’t separate from life. Right now, it is my life, my cause, my harmony and melody, and often my reason to live today and look forward to tomorrow.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Roshambo, Newfoundland

Just home from an amazing trip to Newfoundland (that is pronounced by Canadians with an emphasis on the LAND part by the way). Here is a clip from our first day, a wicked game of roshambo between Sarah and Kirsten before heading up what was to become the Squid Cracks.


More soon on this fun adventure...

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Polartec's New Athlete Advisory Board

I am really excited to be part of this new advisory group for Polartec, the Boston-based insulation guru:

Link to original release

Polartec® Creates Athlete Advisory Board
Ten world-class athletes will consult on performance fabric development.

07.30.2009 – Polartec, LLC, the developer, manufacturer and marketer of Polartec® performance fabrics, announces the creation of a new athlete advisory board. The diverse, international group of world-class climbers, skiers, alpinists, cyclists, adventure racers and multi-sport athletes will test product year round and meet regularly with Polartec’s development team to provide feedback and discuss performance fabric technology.

“We’re incredibly excited to have such an amazing group of athletes on our team,” states Nate Simmons, global director of marketing for Polartec®. “Polartec extensively tests new fabrics both in the lab and the field and our advisory board will take real-world testing to a new level. We have a long list of new developments that they will be evaluating for consumer launches in 2011 and beyond.”

The new Polartec® Athlete Advisory Board consists of:
• Sari Anderson (30, Glenwood Springs, CO) is a national XC mountain bike champion, a world champion adventure racer and a top randonnĂ©e ski racer.
• Antoine Barthelemy (54 of Annecy, France) is an accomplished alpinist and ski mountaineer.
• Bill Belcourt (45, Salt Lake City, UT) is a crusty alpinist and champion paraglider pilot.
• Janet Bergman (29, Madison, NH) is an accomplished all-around climber and consultant to outdoor nonprofit organizations.
• Gord Betenia (47, Vancouver, BC) is a talented ice climber, mountaineer and gear flogger.
• Kelly Cordes (40, Estes Park, CO) is a renowned alpinist, climber, writer and self-proclaimed dirtbag.
• Nick Devore (24, Aspen, CO) is a telemark freeskiing world champion and ski mountaineer.
• Doug Heinrich (47, Salt Lake City, UT, is a world-class all-around climber and multi-sport athlete.
• Mike Kloser (49, Vail, CO) is a world champion mountain biker, adventure racer and legendary multi-sport athlete.
• Laurent Valette (39, Rotherens, France) is an accomplished ultra runner and adventure racer.

Friday, July 17, 2009

When It Rains...

When it rains it pours here in New Hampshire it seems. And that it did for about a month straight in June and early July. So what are we climbers to do?
Just when the forecast had us ready to relocate to California or Australia, Sarah Garlick and I decided we needed an attitude adjustment, and some time outside to clear our heads of working too much (another outcome of all the rain). So we headed out for a fun, wet morning of aid climbing on our local cliff, Cathedral Ledge. Sarah wanted to try out short fixing, so I got to jug lines and listen to the birds. Nice work Sarah!


Sarah, getting ready for the hook moves off the ground on Mordor Wall, Cathedral Ledge, NH

I will let Ed Webster give the description of the Mordor Wall (IV 5.7 A2+), from the Second Edition (the Third being the more current one) of Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire:

“Still regarded as one of the classic Big Wall climbs on the East Coast, much of the route has been free climbed in recent years…the blank, black-streaked wall in the center of Cathedral Ledge offers climbing similar to Yosemite Big Wall. It is a popular training climb; a standard aid rack should be carried, including bashies and pointed skyhooks…at the base of the wall is a curving, expanding flake leading into a narrow dihedral. DO NOT aid P1 with pitons.”

“History: Joe Cote and John Merrill aided the first pitch in 1967 with no intention of going any higher. In the Summer of 1970, Joe Cote and Steve Arsenault climbed the route to the sidewalk on Pendulum Route. The Mordor Roof was added later that summer by Steve Arsenault and Scott Brim, who approached the pitch from above. Arsenaults original lead of pitch two (ed: THE DEATH TRAVERSE!) used only one bolt, placed after friends on the ground convinced him he was risking a ground fall. In 1979 Ed Webster free climbed the Mordor Roof with Choe Brooks. Jim Surette led the first pitch free in 1985.”



Left page, Jim Surette, the sending machine, in his hand sewn lycra.


Here are some photos and video from that.


Sarah moves across the expando flake.


Sarah on the famous Death Traverse, now protected by several bolts and fairly straightforward if, unlike us, you remember to bring TWO pointed hooks!


Sarah, reaching a thank-god bolt after five bashees in a row.


Sweet rappelling video


Wet and refreshed.


A little sun goes a long way!

Friday, May 22, 2009

New River Rendezvous - tug of war and more

Freddie and I made the LOOONG drive down to the New River Rendezvous in Fayetteville West Virginia last weekend.

Being an Ohio girl, I have many fond memories of white water rafting there with my family, and, years later, of hot summers learning to climb on that world famous sandstone.



The highlight of this most recent visit, however, was a a whole new sport: tug of war.

The fabulous folks at Waterstone Outdoors put together two you tube videos chock full of the Pros vs Joes competition:



I really think it is perfect sport for me - all it requires is a bit of competitive spirit (I have never had a problem with that one) and some grit.

The coolest part was that the team we were up against in the finals gave us a big mason jar of peach moonshine afterward.

Many thanks to Maura, Gene, Kenny and the whole crew for putting together a fabulous, fun, very green Rendezvous!